Grimms' Travel Tales

Getting an Ecuadorian Driver's License (Part 3 of 3)

2012-02-19T15:52:00.003-05:00

Finally the day arrived to actually get the driver's license. Of course there are steps that have to be followed, but before you go to the Agencia Nacional de Transito (their version of our DMV), you should study for the online test. This can be done by obtaining a copy of the exact test (with answers) by going to the government office mentioned above and paying $1 for the test, or by printing it at home from the link below. And you can also take practice tests online through the following link: http://www.ant.gob.ec/index.php/testlic.

After you have studied for the test, take the following documents with you to the Agencia Nacional de Transito which is located on Calle el Salado near Alfonso Cabrera.

Original and a copy of your Cedula
Original and a copy of your Censo
Original blood type card you received from Cruz Rojo
Original Permiso de Aprendizaje (you received from the driving school)
Original Certificado de Conductor No Profesional (you received from the driving school)
Must be at least 18 years old
Must be able to read and write Spanish
Must pass the vision test
Must pass the online theory test (which you studied for already at home)
Must pay a fee of $38

After you have accomplished all of the above, your picture will be taken and you will be issued a driver's license. Whew, what a process!

Cuenca Street Map -- Online

2012-02-15T11:29:00.000-05:00

Here is a link to an online version of the Cuenca Street Map:

http://www.openstreetmap.org/?lat=-2.90599&lon=-79.00968&zoom=15

A Guide to Riding the Blue Buses in Cuenca

2012-02-13T12:19:00.000-05:00

Some of you may already know about this, but it's a very handy tool for figuring out the bus routes in Cuenca and which buses go where. Also if you plot where your start and finish is, it will automatically figure out which bus routes to take and show you the bus maps.

Amazing!

http://www.cuencatransit.com/

Trip to Amaru

2012-01-26T19:54:00.047-05:00

Today we took the trip to the Cuenca Zoo called Amaru (which means "snake" in Quechua). It is about a 20 minute bus ride and is located high above the Hospital del Rio on the southeast side of Cuenca. (Their website is www.zoologicodecuenca.com.)

Overlooking Cuenca as we start our tour

The zoo has five different regions, with animals and plants from each corresponding region (Andean, Dry Forest, Rainforest, Barren Plateau, and Exotic Animals). It is more a nature preserve than a zoo as the animals are living in their natural habitat with room to roam or fly. It's great to see animals that are not in small cages.


Amanda, our tour guide

Starting on the tour

Our tour took about two hours total. If you want to see all of the zoo, allow from three to four hours.

Getting higher up into the mountain

Entering bear country


Male and one of the females

Male bear looking our way

The bears (one male and two females) were used to living in very small cages and developed the stereotypical habit of pacing back and forth. When first introduced to their new home, their pacing diminished within two weeks and now they roam freely in their natural environment.

A portion of the bear habitat

Alpacas (their necks are shorter than llamas)

This tour turned into a very strenuous hike up and down pathways that were uneven and at times slippery with mud. So if you decide to go, be forewarned that it is a difficult hike and our group of twelve was not able to finish it. As what happens all too often here in Ecuador, you are not given any details and have no idea of what to expect -- but one thing for sure, you won't be bored!

Eagles

Peacock

This is the male peacock (prettier than the female, of course). The female was nearby but she blended in with the color of the hill.

White-tailed deer

Male

Female with baby (so cute!)


African Lions

Male lion with two females

6 month old cubs

There was a lot more to see (squirrel monkeys, Amazon parrots, macaws, Galapagos tortoises) but we decided to turn around and head back down the mountain. It was a lot of fun, the weather was great, and we got a good workout while enjoying nature. Another great day outdoors!

Getting an Ecuadorian Driver's License (Part 2 of 3)

2011-12-26T18:05:00.006-05:00

It's been awhile since my last blog -- and there's a good reason for that. To refresh your memory of what we've been doing lately, you'll need to read my blog entitled "Getting an Ecuadorian Driver's License, Part 1". http://grimmstraveltales.blogspot.com/2011/11/getting-ecuadorian-drivers-license-part.html. The driving school that we chose to go to is called ANETA (Automobile Club of Ecuador).

At this school, you need to attend for 32 hours. You can go 8 days in a row, 4 hours each day (weekends included); or you can go for M - F (2 hours each day) for 16 days; or you can go only on the weekends, 4 hours each day which is what we decided to do. We started class on Dec. 4th and will finish on Jan. 8th (no classes on Christmas and New Year's).

So what have we been doing during the weekdays, you might ask. We have been studying the textbook that ANETA gave us and also the possible test questions. All 643 questions and of course, it's all in Spanish. So needless to say, we have learned a lot of new vocabulary words. (The actual written test has only 20 questions but you don't know which of the 643 questions will be on the test, so you have to study them all.)

All of our hard studying has paid off because on Dec. 24th we took the written test and passed with flying colors. I must give credit to our good friend Noshy, who came over 3 days a week to help us along the way with the translation issues.

Here's a picture of the girls in our class, studying up to the last minute before the test. They all did very well on the test (not so though for the guys who didn't study that much).


The girls studying up to the last minute!

Mike and Noshy walking to class

So what's next? We have our actual driving test on Jan. 8th. Here's a picture of the ANETA cars that you'll see us student drivers in. I'm doing pretty good in spite of the fact that I haven't driven a stick shift in 25 years, but it all just comes right back!


No mistaking that a student is driving these cars!

Going out for the driving portion

After we pass the driving part, we'll be given a certificate from ANETA that we'll take to the government office for their testing, etc.

Thanksgiving in Cuenca

2011-11-26T14:33:00.073-05:00

Thanksgiving began with a beautiful sunny day -- the perfect weather for the Turkey Trot scheduled for 9AM. We met at the starting point which was Otoronga Plaza.

This event was to benefit the "Fundacion El Arenal". Some of the women who work at the El Arenal Mercado (Feria Libre) were present and very thankful for any help we were able to give them. (Please see updated information at the bottom of this blog.)

These women represented the families working at El Arenal.

And they gave out brochures explaining the Fundacion, which provides services for their children while they are at work. Their services include school support, workshops, family and individual counseling, healthcare, etc. Before the Fundacion started, the children (ages 5-17) would be seen on the street trying to make money for their families by shining shoes, selling newspapers or vegetables, or carrying loads and working between 5 and 12 hours a day. With this Fundacion, they can just be children who thrive under the care of the Fundacion.

They made posters to depict how the Fundacion helps their children.

"Development"

Turkey Trot
The following are pictures of the 2 to 3 mile walk/run.

Walkers are starting (the joggers are already long gone!)

The course was along the Rio Tomebamba

Those in front of me . . .

. . . and just to prove I wasn't last, those behind me!

The turnaround point at Puente Roto (Broken Bridge)

Starting up the 83 steps that lead to town

Mike's thinking: "What took you so long?"

Ending point (Kookaburra Cafe)

Our prize!

We received a handwoven turkey from the Asociacion de Toquilleras Maria Auxilladora (women's hat-making cooperative)

Thanksgiving Dinner

In the afternoon,we went to California Kitchen for a full Thanksgiving dinner (roasted leg of lamb, roast turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy, sweet potatoes, green bean casserole, cranberry sauce, homemade rolls, pumpkin pie, mora cobbler, and cheesecake). Needless to say, we were very happy, indeed.

The restaurant was packed and we knew only about 10% of the people there!

Hoping that everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving, too.

Updated Information from an email received from Mark Raderstorf (organizer of the event):

Hola Turkey Trotters,

Thank you for participating in the first annual turkey trot.

With your contribution, we were able to donate over $100 to

El Arenal Foundation - this will go a long way at this program.

I gave the money to director Bette yesterday and she was very excited

and appreciative.

Just a couple of followup items:


1.  Several of you expressed  an interest in volunteering at El Arenal.

Please let me know if you would like to help out ( I am there 4

afternoons a week). The programs for the kids run from 2 to 5:45.

I am glad to show you around the place if you want to just take a look.

Habla Espanol is not necessary.

2.  El Arenal would love to create a website for the foundation.

If you have website skills or know someone that does, they would love

to tap into your talents.  Just let me know.

3.  Bette would like photos of the event to show other parents, -

if you have any you could pass on to me, I would appreciate it.

Due to popular demand, we are already planning a jingle bell run/walk

for Saturday morning, December 17th.  More info to follow.

Hope to see on the 17th!

Muchos gracias,

Mark Raderstorf

Getting an Ecuadorian Driver's License (Part 1 of 3)

2011-11-17T17:31:00.004-05:00

We have been in Cuenca now for 15 months and have been getting around fine without a car. When we need to get somewhere, we usually walk or take a taxi, depending on how far away we need to go. And sometimes our friends that have cars will drive us where we want to go. Since this has worked out fine for us, why are we thinking about getting a driver's license now?

Sometime next year, we plan on relocating to Cotacachi -- a small town in the northern Andes. It is about 60 miles from Quito, and about 15 miles from Ibarra (the closest large town where we would go shopping, etc.). Life would be much easier for us if we had a car in Cotacachi, so we can run errands in our own car.

There's been some information out there about not needing to go through the entire process required for getting a license here if you already have a valid driver's license (international or otherwise). Since no one has definite data on this, we decided to not take the short cut but to do it the right way and get our license just like everyone else has to for the first time. Also, why wouldn't we want to know what the rules of the road are, and what all of the signs mean?

So here is what we have done to date just to get registered at the driving school. (Everyone who wants to get a driver's license for the first time must go through a driving school here.) We choose Aneta (the Automovil Club del Ecuador). The reason we choose Aneta over the other schools is because they allow an interpreter to attend with you and there is no extra charge. This is important for us since the driving school is all in Spanish, and we want to understand what is being taught.

Aneta is located on the Autopista km 1 y Avenida Las Americas. We will be attending on Saturday and Sunday for 4 weekends from 8am to noon. The first two hours are classroom work, and the second two hours are for driving. (You can also take the course during the week if you choose.) Our class starts on Dec. 4th and ends on Jan. 8th. (No classes over Christmas and New Year's holidays.)

Before you can register with Aneta, you must pass the following tests:

Vision test
Reflex test (red and green lights)
Coordination tests (2 different kinds)

After passing the above tests, you can then register with Aneta by providing the following documentation:

2 copies of the Cruz Roja card indicating your blood type. (First you need to go to Cruz Roja; they will collect your blood; determine your blood type; and give you a card with your blood type on it. Cost $4.)
Original and 1 color copy of your Police Record. (First you need to register at the Police Dept. Give them a color copy of your Cedula and two passport-sized photos. Fill out a form and they will then give you a Record Policial. Cost $5.)
2 color copies of your Cedula
2 passport-sized color photos
Color copy of your passport (front page, and visa page)
Color copy of your Censo
Cost $185.40.

Will provide updates as we go along.

Weekly Update

2011-11-07T09:11:00.001-05:00

Time Change
Daylight Savings Time ended this past weekend in the U. S., which means that Ecuador is now in the same time zone as New York.

English-Speaking Church in Cuenca
If you have missed going to church in Cuenca where you understand the songs and the sermon, come to Calvary Chapel where they have started a 10:00am English service on Sundays. The entire service (songs, sermon, bulletin) is in English. If you want to practice your Spanish you could come to either the 9:00am or 11:00am service which is all in Spanish.

We love going to this church and have made a lot of friends, both ex-pats and Ecuadorians. The church is located near Tres Puentes, on the corner of Solano and Belisario Andrade. Their website is: http://calvaryecuador.wordpress.com/who-we-are/.

Dia de los Difuntos

2011-11-06T21:57:00.001-05:00

When we were recently in Cotacachi, we experienced firsthand what "Dia de los Difuntos" is. It is very interesting to see how the families here view their departed loved ones -- they are still very much a part of the family unit, and their memory is kept alive through this tradition.

Entering the cemetery

Every year on November 2nd, Dia de los Difuntos (Day of the Dead) is celebrated in Latin America. It is a very important day. All businesses and schools are closed. Everyone brings flowers to place on the graves, and they also bring their departed loved one's favorite food to eat at the grave site, making for a picnic-type celebration. In addition to the food, they make the traditional food for this special day: A drink called "Colada Morada" and the baby-shaped breads called "Guaguas de Pan" (guaguas means "kids" in Kichwa, the native language of the Incas). This day allows the entire community to gather together and strengthens the community spirit, as they share stories of their deceased loved ones.

Daniel (left) and Segundo, the mayor's brother

We had a group of about 25 gringos attend this event at the local cemetery in Cotacachi. Our local guide Daniel translated as the mayor's brother (Segundo) explained the significance of this day. Segundo explained how the Cosmic Universe of the Indigenous here is divided into three worlds. The powers above include the creative spirit and the sun, stars and weather. The middle world is our biosphere and Mother Nature which is called Pacha Mama in Kichwa. Underlying these two is a lower world which the dead move through and which also corresponds to our own inner spiritual nature. To have spiritual peace and guidance, an Indigenous person is expected to demonstrate respect for family -- past and present.

It is probably impossible now to unravel which aspects of Ecuador's “Sierra” (mountain) culture come from before the Inca conquered the local tribes here. The Inca controlled this area for only about fifty years before the Spaniards came. The mixtures of belief systems in the Andes that developed from these culture-clashes are interesting in their own right. Pacha Mama and Virgin Mary are used interchangeably in Indigenous ceremonies. Sharing bread and drink are, of course, common to most cultures. The concepts of good and bad here are based on selfless versus selfish, just like almost everywhere where people live together.

This little girl is dressed so cute


The little girl and boy in the background are wearing the typical Indigenous clothes

“Bovedas” or “Nichos”

One concept that may appear unique is that a family plot here is often literally a place for the remains of family members to rest close together. Keeping these together makes it possible to reunite the living extended family regularly in one place. Sharing quality time together in honor of the memory of the dead keeps the spirits alive in a sense that is valued here. Some Mestizo families have family members' bones kept together in “Bovedas” or “Nichos” in a Mausoleum-like structure above ground at the cemetery.

Segundo explained that, for the Indigenous, being buried intact with others in the family ancestry, with the bones being kept under the ground is important, so that the spirit of the deceased can begin the voyage to the under-world with integrity, and can more easily reach the end from where it can return to help watch over family. He adds that the soul is purified on its path, so good or bad, all people end up in the same place. Segundo continues to explain that once the purification of the soul is completed, this spirit should be able to help the rest of the family if the family pays its respects. An “egotistical” or bad person, Segundo says, will have a harder time with the purification, but even the best person's spirit will not help the family that does not show respect for the deceased. The greatest characters in life can maintain a long-lasting spirit in beautiful or powerful places, continued Segundo, where their presence as a guardian may even be sensed long after death, so in this sense- the more positive social impact a person makes, the longer their memory lasts, and the longer their spirit lasts.

Baby holding his Guagua de Pan!

Mike with Colada Morada and Guagua de Pan

Daniel made for us Guaguas de Pan which are dipped into the Colada Morada drink. The drink is similar to red wine in color and is traditionally made with blue-black corn, wild raspberry and blueberry juice, and a traditional herb bundle of red amaranth (sanguarachi) flowers, orange tree leaves, panela or other sugar, cloves, allspice, ishpingo (some call it cinnamon flower), cinnamon bark, star anise, arrayan (a type of myrtle), yierba luisa (the local lemongrass), and cedron (lemon verbena). Usually you'll also see pineapple, strawberries and apple in it, but Daniel likes to work with traditional local fruits, so he used passionfruit juice and added Andean palm coconut juice The purple color of the drink symbolizes the grief and the blood of those who have departed.

A band was playing

Indigenous gathering around the grave sites . . .

. . . and eating together on their loved one's graves

Leaving the cemetery

Pitihayas, Babacos, Camotes y mas

2011-10-21T23:11:00.003-05:00

I went to the second cooking class held at Villa San Carlos last week. Given that there has been so much news in the States about the listeria problems, we were shown how to make sure that our produce here is clean before we start with the preparation of our food.

You need to make a solution of 6 parts water and 1 part regular vinegar. Submerge produce in the solution and scrub, then rinse. You can use this same solution to clean everything that you buy for that day.

Now, onto some of the fruits that I have learned about here in Ecuador. These are some of the most popular:

Pitihaya
This cactus fruit (also known as dragon fruit) comes from the jungle region of Ecuador. It is yellow when ripe and should have a little give with pressed. You slice off the end, and then you can peel it easily with your hand. It reminded me of a kiwi, only white inside. You can eat it in chunks (with the seeds), or put the chunks in the blender and make a drink with a little added sweetener and plain yogurt.

Babaco
This fruit can be bought when green and allowed to ripen at home, turning yellow when ripe. It is the size of a small papaya. The fruit is semi-acidic, but mild in flavor, white in color with the seeds contained in a stringy pulp down the middle. To prepare it, slice off the bottom and then slice down each of the 5 grooves along the side of the fruit. Then you can take out each portion separately and remove the stringy pulp. It is most often cooked in sugar water, or can be used in salads, made into juice, served as a sauce, or baked into a cake. It tastes similar to strawberry-papaya-kiwi-pineapple.

Uvilla
This small yellow-orange grapelike fruit is also called cape gooseberry or ground cherry. It has anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. It can be eaten whole, used in fruit salads, or make into a jam.

This is zucchini bread, topped with yogurt and uvilla jam (delicious).

Bananas
There are many different kinds of bananas:

Guineos or Platanos de Seda: the regular yellow bananas we're used to eating.
Oritos: very small finger-like bananas. I like these the best because they taste sweet with an apple-like flavor.
Platano Rosado: pink skin with pink pulp.
Plaintains:

Barraganete: pointed ends; long and flat; best used green. Can fry or use in soups.
Dominico: pointed ends; smaller than the barraganete.
Maqueno: rounded ends; sweetest and softest of the plaintains when cooked. Use when yellow and firm.
Platano Maduro: ripe plaintains. Peel, slice and fry.
Platano Verde: unripe green plaintains. Slice thin and fry "chifles".

Different kinds of bananas

Platano Maduro con queso -- grilled in skin with La Chanta cheese on top


Our dessert: Emborrajado

The recipe for Emborrajado is to start with a dusty rose banana that you slice in 1/2" slices. Then make a batter with 3 eggs, 140 grs of flour, 20 grs of milk, 1 gr of salt, and 70 grs of sugar. Roll slices in batter and fry. Delicioso!

And now for the vegetables:

Sambo
This is a winter squash that looks like a small watermelon on the outside, but is white inside. To prepare, slice in half width-wise, put on a cookie sheet in a small amount of water and roast at 325 degrees for 40 min to 2 hours (adding more water as needed). When done, the pulp resembles spaghetti. It was served with a pasta sauce made with butter, garlic, white wine, sage, parsley, and orange salt.


Pasta sauce made from butter, white wine, garlic, sage, parsley & orange salt

Potatoes
There are thousands of varieties of potatoes and about half of them are in Ecuador! We were shown three different kinds: Gabriel (which is small, red and good for salads), Chauchau (these are good for making french fries), and Cubanilla (yellow inside; good for making salads and potato chips). There is also the Camote (sweet potato; purple inside; good for making potato chips and potato salad). Since these potatoes have so much starch in them, you need to soak them in water for 10 minutes (after cutting them) before cooking.

Gabriel -- good for potato salad


Chauchau -- good for making french fries

Cubanillas -- good for making potato salad & potato chips

Slice chauchaus in uniform wedges and fry in oil at 250-300 degrees to blanch.
Then fry at very high temperatures to finish cooking.


Making potato chips from cubanillas.

Camotes (sweet potatoes) need to be peeled twice

Delicious in potato salads

A good recipe for potato salad is to make the vinaigrette with bacon, mayonnaise, onions, vinegar, raisins, and sea salt.

Yuca
Also known as Cassava, the yuca is a root vegetable similar to a potato. It can be substituted for potatoes in recipes. To prepare a yuca, peel it, cut in pieces and cook in boiling salted water until pieces become almost transparent. Drain. Remove center fibers and serve boiled, mashed, or french fried.

Should be completely white inside

Everything that we tasted at Villa San Carlos was delicious. Looking forward to our next class, yet to be scheduled.

Hosteria Dos Chorreras -- Part 2 of 2

2011-10-10T17:19:00.004-05:00

On our second day at Hosteria Dos Chorreras we took a tour of Poblado de Guavidula. This is a very well preserved village where the Guavidula people lived in the 18th century (similar to the Incas).

To get to the village which was a short drive up the mountain, we rode in a chiva.

Modified pick-up truck/jeep called a "chiva"

Our driver opening the gate to take us up to the village

Village chapel

These next pictures show the lodge. This was a popular stopping point for travelers to rest before heading to and coming from Guayaquil.

The people weren't very tall. Mike had to duck just to get inside!

Kitchen

Eating area

Lounging area

These villagers were miners and we were able to explore one of their mines. Minerals were in plentiful supply, and also gold was mined here.

Entrance to the "Enchanted Mine"

Our guide, Betty. She used the lamp to light our way.

Saloon

Click to enlarge

Long tunnel

See how small the passageways are!

This was a fun trip for us, and always something new to see and do here!

Hosteria Dos Chorreras -- Part 1 of 2

2011-10-08T14:22:00.004-05:00

We decided to go to the Cajas to celebrate our birthdays at the Hosteria Dos Chorreras, which is about 21 km (13 miles) west of Cuenca. Some people refer to this resort as the "trout farm" or the "trout restaurant". While it is true that they have a large trout farm industry, there is also plenty of other things to see and do while you are there.

We spent two nights in a beautiful spacious room. It was cold in the room but they do have a gas heater that eventually took the chill off of the room. They also have hot water in the shower and bathroom sink. After living here awhile, you know to not take these luxuries for granted.

Here are pictures of the entrance to Hosteria Dos Chorreras (which means "two waterfalls").

Nestled among the mountains

These pictures show the area where our room was. Very pretty sitting areas with amazing scenery to look at.

This is the outside patio area, leading to ...


. . . this living room / sitting area. (This is directly outside of our room.)

Hallway leading to . . .


. . . the stairs that take you to the rest of the hotel.

These are the views from our room:

View from our bedroom window

View from the restaurant, looking up at the dos chorreras (two waterfalls)

The Quinuas River

There are plenty of things to do during your stay; or you can just make a day trip up to the resort. They have a full-day planned if you decide to just come for the day and not stay at the hotel. Included in the full-day price of $45.00 per person is:

Transfer to and from the resort
Welcome drink
Lunch
Visit to the Poblado Guavidula (see part two of this blog)
Horseback riding
Boat ride
Sport fishing
Hiking
Kayaking
Tour trout farm
Mountain biking / climbing

I was out taking pictures of the scenery and one of the guides (Cat) asked if I wanted to go on a hike. So we went on a short hike up into the trees, and I took these pictures:

Start of the hike

My guide, Cat


Me. This was a good opportunity to stop and catch my breath. (Hiking at 11,000 feet isn't easy!)

High mountain lakes, and our turnaround point

Inside the restaurant, there is a place to buy the local crafts. They are beautiful and very affordable.

Panama Hats, of course. These are made in Ecuador, not Panama!

Scarves (very popular here). I bought two.

Here are pictures from inside the restaurant. We were the only guests staying at the hotel, but on the weekends and on holidays, the restaurant is completely full.

Indoor waterfall and pond

Rainbow trout, swimming in the indoor pond

They built the restaurant around the existing environment

Glass ceilings

Celebrating Mike's birthday were Santiago and Pedro

Part two of this blog will be about our tour of the Poblado Guavidula.

High Altitude Cooking and the Metric System

2011-09-25T17:13:00.006-05:00

I enjoy cooking. But cooking has been an adventure since we moved to South America. Not only are there fruits and vegetables here that I've never seen before, but living at 8,000 feet presents some challenges, as well as learning the metric system. Why is the U. S. not on the metric system? It sure would make it easier for everyone to be on the same system, as most of the world is on the metric system.

(Note: C = centigrade, and F = fahrenheit)

The reason that the high altitude affects cooking and baking is because of the lower atmospheric pressure due to a thinner blanket of air. As altitude increases, atmospheric pressure decreases, and this in turn causes:

Water to boil at 196.9 degrees F (at my altitude) instead of 212 degree as at sea level.
Leavening (baking powder, baking soda, cream of tartar) to expand more.
Yeast doughs to rise too quickly and too high.
Sugar solutions to become more concentrated in frostings, candies, jellies, and baked products.
Faster evaporation of liquids in all cooking processes.
Drying out of normal moisture in most food products.

I am using a high altitude cookbook that I bought on Amazon when I was back in the States. And a friend has given me a bi-lingual Andean cookbook, using the produce you'll find in the markets here. I'm just starting to learn how to cook with the different recipes.

In addition, it is necessary to convert from the U. S. customary system to the metric system, such as:

Oven Temperatures
Slow Oven:          (300 to 325 F) converts to 149 to 163 C
Moderate Oven:   (340 to 375 F) converts to 177 to 191 C
Hot Oven;           (400 to 425 F) converts to 204 to 218 C.
(Remember that water freezes at 0 degrees C, and boils at 100 degrees C.)

Other Conversions:

A liter equals a little more than a quart (1 quart plus 3 tablespoons)
A kilogram equals a little more that two pounds (2.2 pounds)
1 cup of butter equals 200 grams
1 cup of sugar equals 190 grams
1 cup of flour equals 140 grams
1 cup of rice equals 150 grams
1 cup of liquids equals 1/4 liter

There are many cities in the U. S. at high altitudes so this information is just a review for many cooks living in the mountains.

Other Differences Not Relating to Cooking

Also, an easy rule of thumb in converting the outside temperature from centigrade to fahrenheit is: take the C temperature and double it, then add 30 and you'll get an estimate of the F temperature.
I've learned how to tell time on a 24 hour system (i.e., 20:00 = 8PM)
The date is different here (i.e., October 1st (10/01/11) is 01/10/11 (day first, then month).
Numbers are written with the commas and decimals switched (i.e., $5.89 = $5,89; $1,364 = $1.364; $1,740,003 = $1'740.003).
And don't even get me started on the language difference!

Oh well, lots to learn and laugh about. My spanish lessons are going great. My friend Noshy comes to my apartment three days a week for two hours at a time and in spite of our laughing and joking, we do accomplish some learning on my part.

Until next time (hasta luego),
Patty

Hacienda San Isidro

2011-09-18T17:40:00.005-05:00

It started out with an invitation to dinner. Would we like to be guests to an enchanted evening? One never knows what to expect, especially when details are sketchy (but that makes it even more fun!).

We were to meet our friends at their residence at 5:30 p.m. Then, the four of us caught a taxi to the residence of another invited guest. After being greeted and ushered into this palacial residence, we quickly learned that this person's taste in decor was exquisite. He was a retired Hollywood producer, and singer living out a quiet life on the outskirts of Cotacachi.

Once all of the invited guests arrived, we then started our caravan up the mountainside to a 300 year old hacienda. Typical haciendas, historically, encompass over a thousand acres. With cattle grazing on the side of the volanco Cotacachi, large farming areas and stables, these haciendas were long ago designed to be self-sufficient, and this one is no exception. (We felt like we had taken a step back in time.) When Hacienda San Isidro was built on the side of the volcano, transportation was by horseback, so the condition of the roads was not that important. However fast forward to the 21st century, and the 30 minute drive "up" the mountain was, shall we say, a little bumpy!

Upon arriving at the Hacienda, we were greeted with a hug and kiss by the hosts, just like we were long-lost family. We were escorted to the candlelit parlor, complete with a warm fireplace and an aperitif of hot wine, served with cheese and crackers. Our host explained that the candlelit parlor reminded him of when they didn't have electricity and lived by candlelight, so even though they have electicity now, it brings back wonderful memories of days long past.

We relaxed in the parlor, sipping our wine, and engaging in conversation as we waited for our host to announce that dinner was being served. We made our way into the large dining room, where there were three tables of varying sizes.

Our party (of ten) sat at the largest table (a rectangle shape). The family waited until we were all seated before they then sat at the circular table set for eight. Included at the family table was a childhood friend of the matriarch of the Hacienda. We learned that this beautiful lady was the daughter of a past president of Ecuador.

But who was the square table for?

We learned that our dinner was prepared by a visiting Italian chef staying with the family, and she had created a tasting menu for the evening.

The first course was the antipasto, consisting of focaccia, salumeria (Italian salami, pepperoni, olives., etc.), Italian cheeses, and insalata mixta (mixed greens and tomato salad with dressing). Of course, we all had a glass of wine, either red or white, according to our preferences.

It was at this point in the evening, that the other guests arrived -- two couples in their twenties, who we assumed where the children of the family. They greeted everyone in the room before sitting at the small square table behind us.

Before being served the main course, we were all given a small serving of a light sorbet to cleanse our palate. The main couse consisted of homemade pasta, made that day. There were three different kinds of pasta: ravioli, fettucine, and linguine. And three different kinds of sauce: bolognese, puttanesca, and pesto.

The pastas were served one at a time, with enough pasta for two people being placed between each group of two, and we served ourselves. After each serving of pasta, our plates and silverware were changed so none of the flavors mixed and our tasting menu stayed pure.

Sitting at our table were a couple that had traveled the world and in fact were getting ready to spend a month in Thailand. Also, there was a couple from England who are land developers and building a retirement community in Cotacachi. And, there was the Hollywood producer (we now have his CD of smooth romantic jazz). Very interesting conversation ensued.

After dinner comes dessert, actually three different kinds. Of course one being tiramisu, which was light and creamy. Following dessert and ending the evening, we were served a digestif of cognac.

Even though I spent about three hours at the dinner table sampling incredible cuisine, I didn't feel stuffed when it was time to go home. We arrived back at our hostal at 11:30 p.m., and had to ring the doorbell and wake up our host to let us in as we were locked out. But what an enchanted evening it was!

Fiesta de la Jora

2011-09-14T20:46:00.000-05:00

When we were recently in Cotacachi, the Fiesta de la Jora was taking place. Below is a description of what the festival was about:

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Celebrations of the Fiesta de la Jora

JORA: a celebration of the sprouting corn (Jora) which unites and strengthens the Andean people and cultures.

Year after year in September, Cotacachi celebrates the festivals of la Jora with song and dance -- an intercultural activity that attracts many tourists to the city. The Festival of Jora has Inca roots and is based on the permanent interplay of three elements: nature, people, and the“creative forces”. According to the indigenous native concept, the balance of these elements gives rise to our life.

This is the start of the planting season for corn, beans, chochos, and quinoa. The locals traditionally thank Nature (which they call Pacha Mama) for the fertility of the earth. In this Fiesta de la Jora, the fruits of the earth mother are specially treated so that making and drinking the Chicha together serves as a symbol of reciprocity with the deities, solidarity with neighbors, and even a kind of redistribution of what they have managed to produce together.

This celebration began to be recognized as part of Cotacachi community identity 51 years ago, and was founded as a public festival by members of the Club El Nacional, who since the early years designated a Queen of the Jora for her moral, intellectual and physical qualities. Over time, a civil Party Committee took over the task of organizing this event with the support of the Municipal Administration. The Fiesta de la Jora, with its displays of music, culture, art and gastronomy has always been a reflection of the essence of Cotacachi.

Chicha, drink of the gods: Corn, known in most of the world as maize, is the grain held as most sacred in the Andean Cosmo-vision, and the calendar of sowing and harvesting rituals revolves around this. The basic component of the traditional drink of September is maize in all of its varieties. Traditionally, the earliest inhabitants of Cotacachi, after the harvest of maize, offered sacrifices to the God or gods whom they worshipped. After ceremonies, they drank this refreshing chicha de jora (corn), together with the peoples and chiefs of the surrounding areas.

Preparation: The process of preparing the Chicha de Jora is long and laborious. It is first necessary to know that this beverage was used in the past for Minga (community work-togethers), as well as for regular working days to quench thirst and provide energy. The local version of fermented Chicha is prepared with 7 dry grains such as: (germinated) maize, wheat, barley, white and yellow and chulpe corn grains and a popcorn type called canguil. It is a process that takes about 3 months starting with germinating maize in leaves of “gilguirillas”, changing the soaking water continuously for 12 days. These sprouted grains, together with other ingredients, are left to dry a specific period of time before being roasted or toasted and then ground. The mixture that results is placed in a bronze vessel filled with water. Bronze is said to give a characteristic flavor. Left to boil for at least 8 hours, water and additional herb and spice ingredients are added, depending on personal or regional preferences. Then this preparation is fermented in a container which is known as pondo. This natural fermentation process is traditionally only for a few days at which point, the Chicha is strained and sweetened and ready for consumption. The level of alcohol is very low at this point -- about 2 percent, although with a longer ferment it can become a little stronger.

Jora in a National Context: The economic activity recorded on the city feast days is high. Leather handicrafts and local gastronomy are featured, with typical dishes including Carnes Coloradas, meat colored and flavored with Annato. Cuicocha Lake with its unique landscape, is a main attraction for national and international tourists. For this years’ Festival, the Municipality of Cotacachi and the Festival Committee have prepared several activities to celebrate the 2011 Jora from the 2nd to the 18^th of September.

The Parade of Joy will be Friday, September 9^th at 3PM on the main streets of the town with floats carrying national and international delegations; and the festivities opening program will be made livelier by several Ecuadorian groups and the Colombian Matecaña orchestra. For Saturday, September 10^th, the election and Coronation of the Queen of the Jora is the central activity. And on Sunday, September 11 a contest for the best Chicha de Jora, a food fair showcasing local products and at midday there will be artistic finale events to conclude these special days of celebration.

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Below are pictures that I took of the various food booths, the crafts, etc.

Starting the cooking process

This little girl is cooking their special delicacy (cuy).
Notice how pretty she looks in the traditional dress. The young girls wear
clothes just like their mom's but made smaller for their size.

Another young girl helping out

Here is the local craft market, located at Parque de la San Francisco. Cotacachi is known for their fine leather products.

Here is Mike with a sculpture in the park. This park is the smaller of two parks in Cotacachi.

Oh oh, someone's coming!

He had to keep moving so as not to fall

There he goes . . .

Here is a picture of an indigenous couple. The traditional dress for women is long skirts with a white pleat down the side. They wear beautiful blouses that are hand-embroidered. The men wear white slacks and panama hats. Both men and women wear their hair in one long braid, down the middle of their back.

A mural at City Hall

We stayed in a hostal called La Cuadra. It was very nice and the price was right ($15 per person, per night). There was a community kitchen and dining room.

The lobby

Our hostess

One of the common rooms

We stayed a week in Cotacachi and really enjoyed the weather. It was sunny and warm every day. Now we are back in Cuenca, and it is cold and cloudy, just like we left it.

Pizza Hut

2011-09-06T20:30:00.002-05:00

OK -- so what's so special about Pizza Hut, you ask? Well, in the States, probably nothing. But if you're a gringo in Ecuador, it's nice to have something familiar around you.

In the mall (which I'll do a blog post about at some point in the future, with pictures), there is a really nice food court with KFC, Burger King, chinese food, italian food, mexican food, ecuadorian food, argentinean beef, etc.

It's funny to see how nice our fast-food restaurants are here. It seems that they are a "special treat" for the folks here.

Here are pictures of the Pizza Hut that is two blocks away from our home. I never ate at Pizza Hut back in the States, but this is an actual restaurant with a real Italian menu, and very good food.

This family was sitting right across from us.
The mom had to hurry up and eat because she had to
leave to go back to work. Her husband and boys stayed
to leisurely finish their almuerzo (lunch).

You can even get home delivery!!

The KFC is just as nice, with two floors, and a children's play area also.

Local Foods Class -- Part 3 of 3

2011-09-05T17:03:00.002-05:00

WARNING: This post shows photos of raw meat, directly from the butcher.

To end our tour of the marketplace, our last stop was the meat/poultry section. The first photos show the beef section:

Very fresh

Sausage

Lard (excellent for making pie crusts)

Lamb

Brendan did say that when buying fresh chickens from these markets, look at the color of the skin. If the skin is yellowish (like in this picture below), that means that they removed the feathers by dipping the chicken in boiling water. The feathers come out easier that way, but the chicken has been partially cooked. So it's okay to buy it like this, but you need to cook it right away to finish the cooking process. On the other hand, if you see chickens with white skin, the feathers have been removed by placing the chicken in cold water. It's a harder process for them, but much better for the consumer. The chicken stays fresher and you won't have to cook it immediately the same day you buy it.

Chickens (look for what color the skin is)

This is the meat market (just outside of Diez de Agosto)
where Brendan buys his meat. His favorite cut is the "flat iron cut".

Local Foods Class -- Part 2 of 3

2011-09-02T17:34:00.001-05:00

My last post left off with our class walking to the Mercado 10 de Agosto (otherwise known as Diez de Agosto marketplace). It was about a fifteen minute walk "up" into town. This mercado is located just off of Calle Larga (take a left on Calle Larga after you walk up the long, steep ramp).

The potatoes, meat, and fruits are on the first floor; and the vegetables and medicinal flowers are on the second floor.

When you first go inside, you'll see the potatoes (chaucha, cholla, milloco, among others). The potatoes in the Andes are very starchy so you need to pick the right kind for the type of cooking you're doing. The chaucha is best for making mashed potatoes, and the cholla pequena make good potato salad because they don't fall apart during the cooking process.

Price List

Other tubers include cassava/yuca (yucca), oca (yam), camote (sweet potato), and mashua.

Next it's onto the fruit -- and there is so much to choose from. You'll see fresas (strawberries), moras (blackberries), guineos (bananas), pina (pineapple), pitahaya (dragon fruit), babaco (a type of papaya), uvilla (gooseberry), sandia (watermelon), cherimoya (Mark Twain's favorite fruit), granadilla (passion fruit), tomate de arbol (tree tomato), and guayaba (guava), among others.

Note: Branden did say that the best apples to make applesauce with are the small ones from Paute (manzanas del Paute).

Moras (blackberries)

Sandias (watermelons) and
Babacos (mountain papaya)

Fresas (strawberries)

Price List

Then it's onto the meat section, where you'll see large cuts of beef and whole chickens. No pictures here so as to not offend the vegetarians.

Here are pictures of the aesthetics of the building itself:

Escalator

Stairs

Stained Glass Ceiling

Next, it's onto the second floor to the vegetables. Again, there is so much quantity, it's amazing. You'll see cebollas (onions), tomates (tomatoes), calabacin (zucchini), coliflor (cauliflower), brocoli (broccoli), calabazas (pumpkins), zanahorias (carrots), and maiz (corn), among other veggies.

Col (cabbage)

Tomate de arbol (tree tomatoes). They're actually
fruits and make delicious juice.

The onions (cebollas) are already peeled for you!

Price List for the veggies

Zucchini (huge)!

Beautiful

The carrots (zanahorias) are short and fat,
but still very good.

An indigenous woman shelling the corn

Another woman grinding the corn, to make
cornmeal for empanadas, tamales, and humitas.

Now, it's onto the area where they sell the chocolate and the spices:

Also the eggs:

These eggs were beautiful (of course naturally colored)

Lastly, we saw the medicinal plants and flowers. They were beautiful also:

I had a tea made from these flowers, and it was delicious.
(You boil the flowers in water, strain, then add sugar and lime juice.)

Now that we know where to buy the groceries, our next class will be to learn how to cook them in delicious recipes. Not sure when that class will be, but should be soon.

Local Foods Class -- Part 1 of 3

2011-08-31T20:55:00.004-05:00

Yesterday, I walked two blocks from my home to attend the Local Foods Class held in the beautiful Villa San Carlos. This lovely home has been remodeled into an event/catering site. The class of twenty was led by Branden Lenz (his wife Sandra grew up in this home).

Entrance to Villa San Carlos

Foyer, leading to the Dining Room

Kitchen

The group, listening to Branden
describe the agenda for today's class

Branden handed out an order form, showing what products you can buy from Villa San Carlos. Among the products listed are different types of vinegars, salts, organics, herbs, and breads.

Before actually starting with a cooking class, Branden decided it would be a good idea if we could see where he shops for his food. So off we walked to the Mercado 10 de Agosto, located up the stairs off of Calle Larga.

Outside courtyard of the Villa San Carlos

Herb Garden

Sage

Branden giving last minute instructions
prior to our walk into town

Part Two will show the different types of items you will see at the large marketplace.

Keeping Busy!

2011-08-28T19:02:00.002-05:00

What do you do with all of your free time? That's what a lot of people ask -- and it's surprising that we tend to find things to fill up our free time with.

First of all, let me explain that I haven't posted anything lately because we've had problems with our internet service and had to recently switch to another provider. We are using ETAPA now and are very happy with the quality of the internet that we are getting from them. So, this blog is a long time coming, and I'm sorry that I've made Nicole and Peggy wait for this newest post. (But it sure is nice to have people in your life who want to read your blog and care about what is happening to you on a regular basis!)

Since we've been back from the States, we have re-connected with our friends (and have made new ones). We have changed churches and are very happy with our new church (Verbo Iglesia). Our friends Mark & Connie Pombo started going to Verbo awhile ago and since then, many gringos have followed along. The back row is set aside for the gringos (not because we are rowdy or anything like that ...), but because we sit right in front of the sound team and they have enough headsets for all of us so we can hear the English translation of the sermon. It sure makes a difference when you can understand the message. We sing the songs in Spanish which is a good way to learn the language.

Speaking of learning Spanish, I have re-started my Spanish lessons. My friend Noshy comes to my home three times a week for two hours each lesson. We have just finished my first week. She is very patient and kind, and we laugh a lot at my pronunciation (or mis-pronunciation)!

Also, I have begun cooking again, which does take up a lot of time. You tend to have to cook most things from scratch. For instance, I made applesauce & oatmeal quick bread and had to make my own applesauce. It was fun and turned out great. I found a cookbook when I was in the States for high-altitude cooking, and am having a lot of fun with it.

I'm going to a cooking class next week which will explain the local foods here, specifically the fruits and vegetables. I'll take lots of pictures and do a blog post about the class.

We've been to a couple of concerts held in the Banco Central Auditorium. The auditorium has stadium threatre seating, so everyone has a good view. The first concert was "Noche de Boleros" and marked the season finale of the Cuenca Symphony Orchestra. The auditorium was full, with 600 people. There were four vocalists and 40 members of the symphony present. It was a beautiful evening.

The second concert we went to was the German Youth Symphony. The musicians ranged in ages from 16 to 21, and their conductor was 31. They will be away from their home for five weeks, traveling through South America. The conductor stated that teaching the young is more difficult than teaching adults; however in Germany, that is not the case because discipline "is not a problem in Germany". They are very disciplined and have the tenacity to learn. Most of these musicians started playing at 5 or 6 years of age. It was a very nice evening, made even better because all of the concerts in Cuenca are free.

We have also joined a bible study group that meets once a week. It is wonderful to have such nice friends in our lives here. This group consists mostly of ex-pats, but occasionally we'll have local folks join us.

We will be going to Cotacacchi for a week (from Sept 7th - 14th). We have property we've bought there (Hacienda de las Flores) and want to check on the progress of the development. During our stay, there will be a festival there called "Fiestas de la Jora 2011". It loosely translates to "Day of Love". The gringo community has been invited to participate in the festivities and they will be providing food from their home country (i.e., U.S., Canda, etc.). All proceeds from the festival will go to the Ecuador Project Hope Foundation. This foundation supports and helps the local indigenous preschools. It's surprising and sad to learn what disrepair the preschools are in -- needing new roofs, floors, and bathroom repairs. It always feels good to help those who are less fortunate.

Well -- hasta luego.

We've Been Here for One Year Now!

2011-08-05T17:18:00.000-05:00

Amazing how time does fly. We've been in Cuenca for one year now. We arrived in Cuenca on August 3, 2010. We left Los Angeles at 2:30 a.m., and arrived in Cuenca at 6:00 p.m. It was a long day and we were glad to arrive in our penthouse and get all of our suitcases (5) and carry ons (4) unloaded.

Fast forward to today. We went to the Millenium Plaza for lunch, then walked to Supermaxi for tomorrow's dinner fixins, then to Choco Cream at La Esquina for ice cream cones. On our walk back to our apartment from La Esquina, we saw Pat & Sue Woods who recently moved here from Kentucky. We are having breakfast with them tomorrow morning at California Kitchen .

The weather lately has been PERFECT. Just the opposite of what it was last year at this time. Last year it was very, very cold, and our penthouse did not have any heaters so we were freezing. Not so now. Our apartment warms up in the morning sun and stays warm most of the day.

In this first year, we have moved three times; went to the coast once; went to the States once; taken Spanish lessons; made many new friends (both expat and Ecuadorian); been on fun and interesting tours; eaten at wonderful restaurants, and dined with friends at their homes. We are back into walking again and Mike will be starting physical therapy to strengthen his left leg in another week.

We are feeling healthy, eating fresh food and walking everyday. Life is good.

By the way, today is my sister's birthday. Happy Birthday, Peggy!

New Resident Services

2011-07-30T16:36:00.002-05:00

We have a good Ecuadorian friend who specializes in helping newcomers transition into living here in Cuenca. She is bilingual and understands the American culture since she lived in the States while attending college.

She is married and has three children. She works part-time at the television station here in town and has been there for twelve years, so she knows who to contact to get things done.

Her name is Noshy Pinos and she can help with you in the following ways:

Personal Assistant
Transition Services
Spanish Lessons

Please visit her website at: www.CuencaNewResidentServices.com.

Weekly Update

2011-07-29T19:48:00.000-05:00

Since I haven't been blogging as often as I should, I'm going to try to blog on a weekly basis (even if we don't do much in a particular week). I'm hoping that won't be the case but we are just getting ourselves organized and settled in since we returned to Cuenca only nine days ago from the U.S.

Since our return, we've done the normal errands: grocery store, post office, bank, haircuts, pharmacy, eating out, meeting with friends, doctor visit, etc. I'm glad to report that Mike has done very well in navigating the sidewalks, curbs, and crossing the streets. I'd like to think that the drivers would be considerate when seeing an older man with a cane crossing the street, but then again, this is Ecuador so probably not!

We saw Mike's back doctor today and he was very impressed with how good Mike is doing. We brought back with us the doctor's report and CD from the U.S., so he could read it and see what took place during the surgery. He said to come back in two weeks (12 weeks post-op), and he'll have Mike start with physical therapy to strengthen his left leg.

Two nights ago, another couple invited us to go with them to the Symphony here in Cuenca. It was a wonderful program; we had great seats; and it was totally free!

Since our return, we've had dinner out with friends several times, and we'll be having breakfast with friends tomorrow morning at California Kitchen. One sad thing is that one of our favorite restaurants (La Piastra) has closed down. It was next to our building and we loved the convenience of just going downstairs to get great pizza. We miss Pablo and would like to know where he is and if he's going to open up another restaurant. So if anyone knows, please let us know.

Either the weather isn't as cold as it was when we first got back, or we're getting used to it because it doesn't seem that bad. In fact, today was an absolutely gorgeous day, full of sunshine. We walked all over today and Mike did really well. (Although I think he is now catching my cold.) We even had a lightning and thunder storm tonight.

Well I guess that's it for now -- until next time.

From the Frying Pan into the Freezer

2011-07-23T20:41:00.001-05:00

This is our 4th day back in Cuenca, arriving on Wednesday, July 20th from Arizona. When we left Arizona, the temperature was very hot and when we arrived in Ecuador, the temperature was very cold!

Needless to say, that is quite an adjustment that your body has to make. We woke up on last Tuesday in Arizona and went to bed that night in Ecuador. With the jet age that we live in, our bodies do take a beating. Traveling today isn't what is used to be. I remember flying when I was a child in the 1950's. It was a very special event. Everyone dressed up. The stewardess (that's what they were called back then) would give us kids coloring books and crayons and playing cards. Also she would pin wings on us and give us gum when we were about to land so our ears wouldn't hurt. We also had a great meal aboard. This was usually a yearly event for our family (mom and kids -- dad had to work). It was fun back then.

Fast forward to today. Not only am I a lot older -- but flying just isn't fun anymore. Too much stress involved. I have a bad sinus cold (but I had one last year when I arrived in Cuenca also).

OK -- enough whining. Now for the update on Mike. He is doing really well but also doesn't like the cold. We're going to get some more space heaters so our apartment won't be so cold.

We've been out and about and Mike has been walking a little outside. We've seen most of our friends and have taken several cab rides. We're taking things slow so we can adjust to the change in weather and the change in altitude.

I am glad that we are back in our own home and the suitcases are unpacked.

Keep Putting One Foot in Front of the Other

2011-07-05T16:23:00.000-05:00

Many years ago when in the U.S. Air Force, I was selected to attend "Survival Training"... a three week course located in Tahoe National Forest in February. It was going to be cold. I still remember the words clearly as we, who had gathered in the auditorium to await the course commander's welcoming words: "You will survive! You will survive! "Welcome to Stead Air Force Base"! It was a week and a half later, when trekking on five feet of snow, trying to escape and evade the "bad guys", that a new sentence became my motivation ..."Keep putting one foot in front of the other". In other words, do not stop walking and give up, or you will die in the cold and snow.

Forty six years later, I am now following the same message as I get out and walk everyday ... trying to improve my left leg function after back surgery and some nerve damage. Little by little, we can travel far. That is my strategy today, and, thanks to all of my "Prayer Warriors" and one very skillful back surgeon, I feel confident that I will regain full function of my leg and life will once again be my "normal".

Today, I am able to walk a little further (35 minutes today) without using my cane. I gave up the walker over two weeks ago. After my walks, I am able to get into the pool for some jogging in place, plus other leg exercises. Seems like a good combo for now. My left thigh is weak, resulting in difficulty in taking stairs. That's what I'm working on now.

Assuming that progress continues, we'll be coming home to Cuenca on July 20th, after staying overnight in Quito on the 19th. We have been more than blessed to have such dear friends, here in Tucson, who have graciously opened their home to us. The benefits have been huge!

Thanks to all who read our blog and who are such dear friends. As we overcome this life adventure, we look excitingly ahead to renewing our chronicle about our Ecuador life and adventures.

Hasta Pronto, Mike

Update on the Grimms

2011-06-12T16:19:00.000-05:00

Tomorrow will be three weeks since Mike's back surgery in Tucson, Arizona. We've been in the States now for about a month, with another month to go before we head back to Cuenca, Ecuador.

Mike's progress is slow but steady (emphasis on the "slow"). It does get frustrating for him at times. The physical therapist told us that the nerves regenerate themselves at a rate of 1 millimeter per month (there are 25 millimeters in an inch). So this is going to be a long process. Just this morning, Mike almost fell because his leg gave out (with no warning). So he's back to using the walker again. (He was getting so much better we thought, and he was walking without the walker.)

He walks every morning for about twenty minutes (with the walker) and me by his side. I'm a little concerned about the sidewalks and curbs in Cuenca. He's going to have difficulty because his leg doesn't work properly and he cannot lift it to go up the curbs. We'll probably have to buy a walker and bring it back with us to Cuenca for him to use.

We are house-sitting for our friends who are back East visiting their friends and family. We're taking care of their home, plants, pool, and cute little dog (Molly). It's been a Godsend to have friends like them who have welcomed us back into their home with open arms.

I've been enjoying driving again; speaking and everybody understands me; having all the products and food available that I've been missing (i.e., we had to go to Wendy's so Mike could get a Frosty, and we went to Subway so I could get my favorite sandwich!)

So even though this has been a difficult time, there's always something to be thankful for!

Back Surgery

2011-05-25T21:44:00.002-05:00

This is a short blog to let everyone know that Mike came through his back surgery with flying colors! He is two days post-surgery now and has been up and walking without any leg pain. The herniated disc was removed and now he is pain free (except for the pain in his back from the surgery).

We are so thankful to everyone who has expressed their support during this difficult time. Mike has undergone two surgeries in just a month's time. He has lost weight but his spirits are up because he can walk (with the use of a walker). He will need to rebuild the muscles in his left leg and will once again be able to walk with me along the Tomebamba River once we get back to Cuenca.

I especially want to thank my sister Peggy who flew from Los Angeles to Tucson to be with me during Mike's surgery. Thank you sis for your everlasting love.

And I also want to thank our dear friends Ed and Nancy who have taken us nomads into their home in Tucson and have treated us just like family. I hope that Nancy will be able to have back surgery too as she is in just as much pain as Mike was in (maybe even more).

Hasta Luego,
Patty

Back in the USA

2011-05-19T21:07:00.000-05:00

We have been back in the USA (Tucson, Arizona) for over a week now. This is the first time we've been back since we moved to Cuenca last August. Even though we've been gone for about nine months, it seems just like yesterday that we were living here. I haven't driven in nine months but there was no problem driving around Tucson. The roads are great and the drivers are polite and courteous - just like I remember them to be!

I've had fun shopping at beautiful supermarkets (Fry's), going to Walgreen's for prescriptions (we're still in their system), and ordering many things online to be shipped to my address in Tucson to bring back with me to Cuenca. I allowed for this as I brought an empty suitcase with me to Tucson to fill up and bring home.

The real reason we're here in Tucson is so Mike can have major back surgery at the Tucson Medical Center, which is scheduled for Monday, May 23rd. He has been in constant pain since last December and his left leg is starting to go numb now because of a herniate disc in his lumbar spine. The doctors assure us that his nerve will completely recover and he'll be back to normal again.

This is one of the better times to be in Tucson (weather wise). There is sunshine every morning when you wake up and the temperature is in the 80's during the day and the 50's at night. I know that when we come back to Cuenca, we'll have to adjust to limited sun, cooler temperatures, and routine showers. But that is why Cuenca is so pretty and green with beautiful flowing rivers and clean air. Tucson is a desert and hasn't had any rain for six months. When we first got here, I had a hard time adjusting to the dryness - I will be glad to get back to Cuenca's moderate climate (however, wish we had more sunshine).

Will send an update after Mike's surgery.

Health Issues

2011-05-04T19:47:00.000-05:00

It's inevitable that if you live long enough, you will have health problems to contend with. That is the reward for living a long and productive life! Mike says that we take such good care of ourselves in our younger years so that we can live to a ripe old age. However, the "ripe old age" more than often than not is fraught with medical procedures and continued health problems. I told Mike that this is what "growing old together" is all about. It looks like we're at that stage of life now. I'm glad that I'm still in good health so I can take care of him.

Mike has had back issues for quite a long time. He had major back surgery due to spinal stenosis in February of 2010. The surgery was very successful, allowing Mike to walk without any pain. But since last December, he's been having intermittent back pain. Now it has become constant. An MRI shows a herniated disc in L2/L3 which is causing terrible pain and weakness in his left leg. The doctors here indicated that Mike should go back to his doctor in Tucson to do the surgery required for this new back condition. I'm hoping that he'll be able to regain the strength in and use of his left leg.

On top of all of this, he had to have emergency surgery on Easter Sunday to remove his gallbladder. The arthroscopic surgery was performed by Dr. Serrano at Monte Sinai Hospital, and he has recovered fully from that surgery. But this has delayed us getting to Tucson to see his back doctor.

We are scheduled to fly back to Tucson on Tuesday, May 10th. Mike will be seeing his spine doctor in Tucson on May 12th. Hopefully surgery can be performed soon so Mike can be on the road to recovery.

We want to thank all of our friends here in Cuenca for their concern and kindness during this ordeal, and also to thank our friends in Tucson for helping us transition back to the States for several months.

Will try to provide updates on a regular basis.

San Bartolome, Chordeleg and Gualaceo

2011-04-17T21:05:00.001-05:00

Living in Cuenca like we do, we forget how wonderful it is to get out of the city and into the countryside. We did just that during my sister's stay with us. We took a one-day tour with Terra Diversa into the country. We had a tour guide (Juan Carlos) and a driver (Pablo). Our tour started at 9AM, meeting our van at the Hotel Victoria on Calle Larga. We took a circular route through the mountains and returned via the main highway. Along the way we took our time, admiring the sights, and stopping to take pictures.

Here are pictures on our way to the village of San Bartolome.

A beautiful sunny day

Patty, Mike, and Peggy

In the town of San Bartolome, we stopped at the main square where the church is located. It is high up in the mountains overlooking Chordeleg.

Driving toward San Bartolome

San Bartolome

The church in San Bartolome

We stopped at a local home where we were served coffee, tea, and cookies. Everything was delicious and the family was very gracious, letting us go into their home to use the restroom.

Also in San Bartolome, we stopped at the home / workshop of the Uyaguari family to admire the handmade guitars. The decorative work is so detailed and precise.

Raw materials

Pieces used for decorative trim

Finished product

Armadillo shells used to make ...

these instruments

Then it was onto Chordeleg (a town of 5,500), known for the beautiful gold filligree and silver jewelry. You'll also find woodcarvings, pottery, textiles and plenty of panama hats. We strolled throughout the park, museum, and shops for an hour before having lunch. Here are pictures of our visit to Chordeleg.

Beautiful park in Chordeleg

Museum pieces in Chordeleg

All handmade

Panama hats anyone?

What a beautiful work of art!

Even prettier in person

We had lunch at the Pampa Mesa Restaurant which is inside the beautiful Zhirogallo Gran Hotel. The hotel is located across from the Mercado Municipal on the corner of Calle Guayaquil and Calle Rodrigo Borja.

Entrance to hotel

We ate lunch in this restaurant

Next, we went about 10 km north to the town of Gualaceo (pop 42,000). I learned that Gualaceo is nicknamed "El Jardin del Azuay" (the Garden of Azuay). We stopped at the Feria Artesanal where I bought some baskets. There were also fruits, vegetables, textiles, etc., all very reasonably priced.

We went to see the orchids at Ecuagenera. It is believed that there are more than 4,000 species of orchids in Ecuador, ranking Ecuador as one of the most richly populated areas in the world for growing orchids. Ecuagenera was launched 53 years ago and by 1993, it had become the first Ecuadorian business to obtain legal permission to export orchids and now is the largest orchid exporter in the country.

Here are pictures of the grounds and the orchids at Ecuagenera. I found it very interesting how the orchids get their start: through in-vitro fertilization and remain in that protected state from 2 to 4 years.

Entrance to Ecuagenera

Resting a bit!

In-vitro fertilization.
They are kept in this enviromnent from
two to four years, depending on the species.

Then they are planted in soil beds.

Indoor garden area, displaying the orchids.

Resembles a bull.

A monkey's face!

They enter their orchids in shows and have won many awards.

Our last stop before going home was to see a demonstration of the ikat weaving technique. Ikat is a method of weaving that uses a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on the fibers. The dye is applied prior to the threads being woven to create the final fabric pattern or design. Traditionally, and still commonly, a back-strap loom is used, as was the case in this family that we visited. The children start learning this craft at age 7.

The newly dyed and thoroughly washed bundles are tied onto the loom. The patterns are usually decided by the weaver as the warp threads are tied. Weavers will adjust the warp repeatedly as the weaving progresses to maintain pattern alignment. Patterns can be created in the vertical, horizontal or diagonal.

Here are pictures of the family that we visited. The daughters were dyeing the fibers and the father was weaving, using the loom.

The daughters wash, card, spin, and dye the fibers.

The washed fibers drying in the sun.

The father is weaving the old-fashioned way
with a back-strap loom.

Patty wearing the finished product.

Family in Cuenca

2011-04-16T16:59:00.003-05:00

We have been blessed to have my sister visit with us for ten days this month. It isn't an easy trip to make (from Los Angeles to Cuenca). We did it last summer and know how exhausting it can be. Luckily, everything turned out good regarding the travel portion of her vacation.

However, one should always keep in mind that plans can change and often do. My sister arrived in good health and she adjusted very well to the altitude. But on the day we were going to leave for our trip to the jungle, she came down with the stomach flu. It's a good thing that it happened here at home and not in the jungle.

Also, my husband hasn't been feeling very well lately. So we all feel that the trip to the jungle just wasn't meant to be. Looking at life through the lens that all things happen for a reason makes unexpected occurrences not a big deal.

We did become tourists though and took several tours during my sister's stay. We were very pleased with the tours that we booked through Terra Diversa, which were the half-day Cuenca City Tour, the all-day Cuenca Charms Tour, and the all-day tour to the countryside towns of San Bartolome, Chordeleg and Gualaceo.

The Cuenca City Tour was a walking tour of old town including Parque Calderon and the surrounding churches. We also rode up to Turi for a panoramic view of Cuenca and went to Homero Ortega, a workshop that produces the panama hats. It was a very fun and interesting day.

On the Cuenca Charms in a Day Tour, we spent the entire morning in the Banco Central museum. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable about the archeology, ethnography, on-site ruins, and Inca gardens and explained all of the exhibits to us. After lunch in a restaurant in the San Joaquin neighborhood, we went to Banos to see the hot springs. Overall, it was a very good day.

Also we were able to enjoy some of the celebrations in Cuenca occurring for the 454th anniversary of it's founding. There was special music, folk dancing, food and shopping at La Esquina on Doce de Abril which is walking distance from our apartment. The weather was gorgeous with sunny mornings, thunderstorms in the afternoon, and fireworks at night.

My next blog will include pictures I took on our trip to the countryside.

Getting Ready for our Trip to the Amazon

2011-03-29T20:23:00.002-05:00

In just ten days, we'll be taking a trip to the jungle. There are many different types of trips to take -- staying at various lodges, or taking a boat cruise on the Napo River that feeds into the mighty Amazon River. It is the boat cruise that we have decided upon. The Manatee Amazon Explorer resembles a large three-story houseboat. It has fourteen private cabins with air conditioning and hot showers, a dining room, sundeck, and a lounge. This will be our base for our four days/three nights in the jungle. We'll be taking daytime and nighttime expeditions -- both on the river in a canoe and trekking on land. We will go to the Yasuni National Park and also the Parrots' Salt Lick.

Preparation is important, as with any new experience, to having a successful and safe adventure. The list of things to do, to buy, and to bring is extensive and should be taken seriously and followed. Among the things one must do is to have your yellow fever vaccination. (Once you have one, it is good for ten years.) You'll be given an official record that shows you have had your vaccination, and you cannot go to the jungle without displaying it to the appropriate authorities.

I had my yellow fever vaccination one week ago (as did my husband). Some people experience reactions to the vaccination -- my husband hasn't but I haven't been so lucky. Starting on the second day after my vaccination until now, I've had intermittent stomach pains ranging from mild to severe. I think the pains are easing off a bit and hopefully should be gone by the end of this week. I've been tired also. It will be good to feel good again. (In Cuenca, you need to go to the Public Health Department to get your yellow fever shot. It is called Jefatura de Salud and is located within the Military Hospital on Doce de Abril. The cost was $10 per person.)

Another health-related item is to go to your doctor to get anti-malaria pills. These are not mandatory but still a good idea. (These are taken one a day for ten days starting three days before your trip.) Also, you should bring with you insect repellent (containing DEET) to keep those pesky mosquitoes off of you.

There is much more information available at the Manatee website at www.manateeamazonexplorer.com.

Wish us good luck!!

Hosteria Uzhupud

2011-03-19T16:59:00.002-05:00

Entrance to the hosteria

We had the opportunity to visit one of the hosterias that we've been wanting to visit because of what we've seen and heard from our friends who have been fortunate enough to see this beautiful resort.

History

Uzhupud means “Hot Chili Pepper Valley”. This name combines two native languages (Quichua and Cañari). "Uzhu" in Quichua means hot chili pepper and "Pud" in Cañari means plain, flat, and ample place.

The current majority owners of Hostería Uzhupud are the descendants of don Cornelio Vintimilla Muñoz, his wife doña Esther Muñoz Dávila, and their grandchildren Crespo-Vintimilla and Vintimilla-Vinueza.

The Hostería is situated on the lands of the old hacienda. The current buildings have been adapted to the old, large family houses in which the Muñoz and the Vintimilla families lived. Today they produce the French liquor Marie Brizard, the Italian vermouth Gancia, and many other similar products.

Information

There are 36 private rooms in the main plaza and two communal rooms in the main building.

They have an indoor and an outdoor restaurant, and both are open Monday through Sunday, from 7:00am to 10:00pm. They also have a convention center, a chapel, swimming pool, tennis courts, and horseback riding.

We ate lunch outside on the patio

Location

Hostería Uzhupud is located 40 minutes away from Cuenca in the Chicán parish. It is near the town of Paute in the Province of Azuay in the Ecuadorian Andes, at an altitude of 2180 meters above sea level in one of the most sacred places of the ancient Cañaris: the Totemic Valley of the Paute River. The Paute River forms five minutes away from Hosteria Uzhupud as the result of the merging of the Gualaceo River and the Cuenca River. From this point it starts its long journey towards the magnificent Amazon River.

Indoor dining

We will be taking a trip to the Amazon next month. It will be a four-day cruise on the Amazon Manatee Explorer. Looking forward to our trip -- will share our stories and photos when we return.

Forever Young, Yellow Magic, Cherry Love

2011-03-13T22:27:00.001-05:00

Ecuador is a large exporter of flowers and most notably, roses. We had the opportunity to visit one of the growers and were given a guided tour. "Altaflor" is a member of the National Association of Flower Growers and/or Exporters of Ecuador. Their farm is located just outside of the town of Paute, which is about 20 miles northeast of Cuenca. There are about 650 growers throughout Ecuador, employing thousands of people. Roses make up the bulk of the flower exports at 62%. The largest importer of Ecuadorian roses is the U.S., with Russia being a close second. We learned that Russia wants roses with extra-long stems so the tallest roses are exported to Russia. Sixty-five percent of the roses produced at this particular farm are exported to Russia. So much for the facts, now for the fun stuff -- pictures:

These roses are ready to be packed and shipped.

But before they were cut -----

--- they were here

"Forever Young"

These roses were just cut. We learned that this farm cuts 28,000 stems a day, everyday (7days a week)!

"Yellow Magic"

"Cherry Love"

"Movie Star"

"Mohana"

"Esperance"

This farm employs 200 people, 60% of which are women.

After the roses are cut, they are placed in these wet containers so they don't dry out.

You can see how tall the roses are

"High and Magic"

"Priceless"

Ready to be sorted and packed

In the cold storage room

Potpourri anyone?

We were each given roses on our exit from the farm

Here they are on our dining room table. Beautiful!!

After our visit to Altaflor, we then went to have lunch at Hosteria Uzhupud. See my next post for the pictures of this beautiful hotel.

Our Trip to Cotacachi (Part 3 of 3)

2011-02-28T19:45:00.017-05:00

On our first day in Cotacachi, we were lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time to see an amazing parade. I'm not sure what was being celebrated but I think it had something to do with music and the schools in town. All ages participated in the parade and they demonstrated the various dances throughout Latin America, wearing the appropriate dress.

I especially enjoyed the youngest dancers, and the oldest were able to participate in their wheelchairs!

Hope you enjoy the pictures:

The youngest ...

Even the dog got in the act!

The indigenous dress

... and the oldest!

The parade lasted for over an hour. I'm sure that everyone worked very hard on putting this together. It looked perfect, and everyone was sure enjoying themselves.

Our Trip to Cotacachi (Part 2 of 3)

2011-02-27T14:56:00.017-05:00

Cotacachi is a small town nestled between 2 large volcanoes in a beautiful country setting. I took pictures of the country gardens we saw along with some beautiful country homes.

We also went to Otavalo which is the next town over. There is a river that separates Cotacachi and Otavalo. Otavalo is a larger town with a population of about 80,000. They are well known for their textile products. There is a large outdoor marketplace where you can buy woven items and jewelry. The market is open everyday but on Saturday you can find the largest selection of vendors with their wares. I took a few pictures of the marketplace.

On the outskirts of Otavalo, you can hike to Peguche Falls. It is about a 15 minute hike from the parking lot but well worth it. There were a lot of high school kids at the falls trying to throw each other into the water. They were having a lot of fun but we were worried that someone might lose their footing and fall down the falls. But they must do this all the time and no one was getting hurt.

See the kids behind the bridge, in the water!

Our Trip to Cotacachi (Part 1 of 3)

2011-02-26T16:24:00.024-05:00

Cotacachi is a small town in the Andes, about a 2-hour drive from Quito. It is a little lower in elevation than Cuenca, but feels like it has the same weather. We just got back from our trip to Cotacachi. We were there for a week and really enjoyed our visit. What did we like about it? Well, we really liked how quiet it was! I guess I'm getting old, but the constant traffic below our apartment, the car alarms, the firecrackers going off, hearing your neighbors, etc. is noisier than I realized. Being away from all of the noise, you realize how loud it really is.

One of the reasons why it was so quiet in Cotacachi was because we stayed at a beautiful ranch hotel which could easily accommodate 200 people and we were the only ones there! Also it is off the beaten path, thus making it even quieter. We had a TV but only in Spanish so we didn't watch it much. But we did have internet which is a requirement for keeping in touch (with the outside world!).

Cotacachi is a town of about 10,000 people (compared to Cuenca with about 400,000 people). What's beautiful about Cotacachi are the two volcanoes that are on either side of the town. On the west side is (Mama) Cotacachi and on the east side is (Papa) Imbabura. They are considered sacred by the indigenous people that live there. Speaking of the indigenous, their dress for the women is different than in Cuenca (long skirts in Cotacachi compared to short skirts in Cuenca). (Long makes more sense to me for protection and warmth.) Also, because you're in such a small town, you have more direct interaction with the indigenous people (the women mostly) who cook and serve you your meals, and clean your room. They are very sweet people who just want to please.

The following are pictures of where we stayed (Rancho Santa Fe). On the hotel sign is a picture of "Kokopelli". We were very surprised to see Kokopelli. He is everywhere in Arizona - not sure how he got to Ecuador! (But maybe he actually started in Ecuador!)

The following pictures are the sights around town; i.e., church and central park, restaurants, leather stores. Notice how beautiful, smooth and clean the sidewalks are. Also on top of the church is a statute of Jesus as he overlooks the town. (I loved that!) And Cotacachi is known for its leather products. There is one main street just dedicated to the leather stores. Mike and I both bought leather jackets while we were there.

Nice sidewalks!

The first place we ate. (The food was delicious.)

This was a tourist attraction; hence the musicians playing for our benefit.

Solid Rock Cafe

Serendipity Restaurant

We were walking around town trying to find a map of Cotacachi, but there were none to be found. Lo and behold we stopped and there painted on the wall of a building was a map of Cotacachi! I took a picture, printed it and now we have a map of Cotacachi!

More posts to follow re our week in Cotacachi.

The River Wild!

2011-02-17T15:23:00.010-05:00

This is the rainy season in Ecuador and it has rained more this year in Cuenca than in years past (so I'm told). Whenever the rains come, they flow down from the mountains, filling up the rivers. So yesterday I decided to take pictures of the river closest to us - the Rio Tomebamba - to show what it looks like after the rains. We had a particularly strong storm two days ago - with lightning and thunder. It was great (but I was indoors safe and warm!). The sun was shining and the pictures show the river sparkling in the sunshine.

It's about a ten minute walk to the river. Walking along the river (on 12 de abril), you see the following sights:

These are the stairs that lead up to the old town (one of several stairways to town)

These young men were getting their exercise running up and down the stairs

Walking back home

More pictures to follow of our trip to Cotacachi ...

Weekly Update

2011-02-12T16:38:00.016-05:00

It's been awhile since my last post. I'll try to post more often from now on. We're settling into a routine and here's what we've been doing lately.

Going to doctors. Oh fun! But when you get to a certain age, it takes up a lot of your time! Here are the doctors that we have found and highly recommend. They are all at the Monte Sinai Hospital, which is within walking distance of our apartment.

Dr. Pablo Parra, Internal Medicine. Dr. Parra is like our Primary Care Physician. Anything that is wrong with us, we go to him first and he'll take care of us or refer us to a specialist. You just show up during his office hours (10am - 1pm and 5pm - 7pm) - no appt needed. The office visit is $25. Dr. Parra speaks very good English and has a lot of ex-pat patients. If you need a specialist, he'll get on the phone and call the doctor himself and will then walk you over to the doctor's office and will stay with you if translation is needed.

Dr. Gustavo Vallejo, Orthopedic Surgery. Dr. Vallejo is an orthopedic surgeon who speaks very good English. He saw Mike about five times when his back was bothering him. He had Mike go downstairs to the radiology department to get x-rays taken of his back. This took about 15 minutes. All of the x-rays, mri's, lab results, doctor's reports, etc., belong to the patient. So make sure you bring everything with you to your dr appt so the doctors will have the most current information. Dr. Vallejo's office visit costs $25. The average cost of x-rays is $42. Mike's blood work costs $59. The doctors do everything - take your medical history, take your blood pressure, administer the medicine / injections, if needed, etc. Dr. Vallejo gave me a prescription to be filled at the hospital pharmacy downstairs. I brought the medication (injectable) back to the doctor who administered it to Mike in his office. The doctor's offices serve a dual purpose: Half of the space is for their clerical work and the other half is the clinical setting where the patient is examined. Very efficient.

Dr. Alberto Amaya, Urologist. Dr. Parra walked Mike over to meet Dr. Amaya and stayed during the examination. This was mainly to meet Dr. Amaya and get established as his patient. His office visit was $25 also.

Dr. Patricio Serrano, Laparoscopic Surgeon/ Gastroenterologist. Dr. Parra also walked Mike over to meet with Dr. Serrano. Sometime in the future, Mike will need to have his gallbladder removed. This surgery will require him to stay overnight in the hospital, probably two nights. They have a second bed in the room for the spouse to stay with the patient overnight and even have meals for the spouse. Very nice!

Dr. Christian Abad, Dentist. Dr. Parra recommended Dr. Abad when we said we needed to see a dentist. We have both had our teeth cleaned and Mike had to have some reconstructive dental work performed. He is very happy with the care and dental work that was performed. Dr. Abad speaks very good English also. Dental cleaning costs $45. X-rays cost $50.

Dr. German Arichavala, Ophthalmologist. Mike needed to replace his eyeglasses, which he lost. Dr. Parra recommended Dr. Arichavala. The exam and new glasses cost $150.

As you might notice, most of these doctor appointments were for Mike. Fortunately, I am healthy and have not been sick since I arrived here. I think the good food, clean air, good water, and healthy outdoor lifestyle suits me. However, I did have a bad fall which necessitated a ride in the ambulance to the ER. This was almost five months ago. I'm doing much better, but still not fully healed. The ambulance, ER doctor, ER room, x-rays all cost $100. And I was in the ER within 20 minutes of my fall! Since arriving in Ecuador 6 months ago, our prescriptions for both Mike and I amount to $500. This includes Mike's maintenance medication that he takes monthly.

Spanish lessons are going good. We went for 3 weeks and are taking a break right now. We are planning an out-of-town trip to Cotacachi and will resume Spanish lessons when we return. Cotacachi is a town also in the Andes, about 1-1/2 hours outside of Quito. We're going to fly to Quito on Friday, Feb. 18th and then have a driver drive us to Cotacachi. We'll be staying a week and will take lots of pictures. There are some wonderful leather merchants where we plan to do some shopping. We'll also do some shopping in a nearby town called Otavalo. We plan on meeting up with another couple there and we should have lots of fun. Hopefully lots of walking and swimming in the heated pool of the hotel we're staying at.

We just got back from the movies. We saw Imparable (Unstoppable). It was in English with Spanish subtitles. It starred Denzel Washington and was very good. Highly recommend it! The price for the movie was $2.25 for Mike and $4.50 for me!

Tonight we're going out to a Valentine's dinner that our church is organizing. Should be fun. And on Monday night (Valentine's Day), we're going to the Mansion Alcazar for a special Valentine's dinner they are having. I'll write more about that after the fact.

No pictures this time. I'm going to walk along the river and take pictures but am waiting for a sunny day. This is the rainy season and will take pictures as soon as the sun comes out.

Hasta Luego, Patty

P.S. Just got home from the Valentine's dinner. We arrived at our pastor's house at 7:30 p.m. and walked over to the event location which took about 15 minutes. One of the couples that we were with got water-ballooned. This is the time of year known as "Carnival" (kind of like Mardi Gras). The teenagers fill balloons with water and throw them indiscriminately at anyone and everyone. So far we haven't been hit yet! Our event started at 8:00 p.m. with a message on marriage, but the dinner didn't start until 10:00 p.m. We were too tired to stay for dinner plus 10 p.m. is too late for us to be eating dinner. We said our goodbyes and the Ecuadorians couldn't understand why we weren't staying for dinner. I think that 10 p.m. is the normal dinner time for them. Another interesting experience!

English-Speaking Ecuadorian Available to Help You with Your Errands

2011-01-28T20:44:00.006-05:00

We have personal friends that go to our church who are looking for extra work. They are an Ecuadorian family (Noshy and Alfredo) and are very capable in helping ex-pats out with the errands we find ourselves needing to get done. Also, Noshy speaks very good English as she learned English as a young child.

Here is a list of the items they can help you with. (They are available Monday through Saturday.)

Noshy's List:

Practice Spanish
Housekeeper
Help with translation
Baking goodies
Help with documents in different areas. (Noshy works at a TV station and is in contact with government people and owners of different businesses.)
Customs contact
Help with banking
Help with doctor appointments
Help in buying groceries. (Just give her your list and she'll go shopping for you.)
AVON and TUPPERWARE representative
Help with bill payments and post office service
In touch with gardeners, veterinarians, seamstresses, etc.

Alfredo´s list

Jewelry repair, cleaning and polishing
Handyman (electrical, plumbing, carpenter services)
Has the "Licencia Profesional de Manejo" (Professional Drivers License)
The payment for Alfredo depends on the kind of service (here we call "points")

If you think that you might be in need of their services, please contact them at noshypinos@hotmail.com.

A Busy Week

2011-01-25T20:35:00.023-05:00

Life has started getting busier for us since the New Year began. We started the New Year with resolutions to start back exercising (it's been about six months since we last exercised on a regular basis), and also to get serious about learning Spanish, so we started Spanish school.

Our typical week would start on:

Sunday with us going to church. There are two other ex-pat couples that go on a regular basis. It's good to see them each Sunday (and mid-week sometimes too). The service is in Spanish so I don't understand much but that hopefully that will change as I learn more Spanish. The songs are in Spanish also and I have learned many of them and know what I'm singing (with the help of my dictionary). After church, we go out to lunch somewhere and then to the grocery store and then home.

Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings we go to the gym. It is a beautiful gym called BodyCare that is up on hill going toward Turi. We both walk on the treadmill first then workout on the weight machines. Everyone is very helpful there and we've met another older ex-pat couple who enjoy working out also. The following pictures show the spa area, the gym, and the restaurant.

Bodycare Spa

Stairs to the Gym

Treadmills

Weight Room

Pilates

The Restaurant

View from the restaurant

Every Afternoon (Monday through Friday) we attend Spanish school for two hours. The school is located in the central ciudad on Sucre near Hermano Miguel. It is called Amauta and they have a website that you can check out at http://www.amauta.edu.ec/. It is hard work but I know it will be worth it and it's good to use our brains to learn something new.

Our Neighborhood

I have taken pictures of our neighborhood: the University of Cuenca, Santa Ines Hospital, some restaurants in the area, etc.

Leaving our building, this is the view from across the street

Our street name (Agustin Cueva)

The Italian restaurant in our building

Eggnog left over from Christmas

Wine from South Africa

The owner, Pablo

University of Cuenca

Santa Ines Hospital

La Esquina, means "the corner" - (beautiful shops and restaurants)

Of course, we have to get ice cream!

Chao for now, Patty

Large Apartment for Rent

2011-01-15T15:43:00.012-05:00

Located in our building (Edificio Santa Maria) is a large three-bedroom apartment for rent on the fourth floor. It takes up half of the floor at 200 sq. meters. We know the family that owns it and I have taken pictures to help them get the word out that it is available.

It is unfurnished and they are asking $400 per month for rent. In addition there is a building fee you would need to pay, plus utilities, Internet and TV. There is an assigned parking space in the garage and the building has an elevator.

For more information, please contact the son-in-law Pedro Jerves (who speaks English) at apple@officesoluciones.com. Or you can call his land line at (593 7) 283-7506, ext. 109, or his cell phone at 09 595 9214.

When you enter the apartment, you are in the living/dining room. To the left is the kitchen, laundry room and full maid quarters. To the right of the living/dining room is the TV/family room, 2 guest bedrooms, guest bath, master bedroom with master bath.

There is no terrace, but there are beautiful views of the old town.

Enjoy the pictures!

Living Room/Dining Room

Social Bath

Kitchen

Laundry Room

Maid's Quarters

Hallway

TV/Family Room

Guest Bedroom 1

Guest Bedroom 2

Guest Bathroom

Master Bedroom w/Bath

Edificio Santa Maria

2011-01-14T20:21:00.017-05:00

It's been such a long time since I've created a blog post (with pictures). My camera stopped working two months ago and I just recently received the batteries that I ordered. I'd better order new batteries now so I can have a lot on hand!

Now, for the fun part. Pictures!!

We moved into our apartment four weeks ago and are really happy here. It feels like home. I've taken pictures of the inside and the outside of our apartment.

Enjoy!

We live in the Santa Maria building (Edificio Santa Maria). It is located near the University of Cuenca and not far from the Tomebamba River. Here are pictures of the building and the second floor where we live.

Upon entering the apartment, you're in the living room.

Guest Bedroom

Guest Bath

Office

View from Office window (domes of the new cathedral)

Master Bedroom

View from Master Bedroom

We can look out our bedroom window to the little Italian restaurant (La Piastra) on the street level to see if it's open or not!

We can walk everywhere from this location. I'll post more pictures of our neighborhood on the next blog post.

Chao, Patty

Five, Four, Three, Two, One -- 2011!

2011-01-04T08:40:00.005-05:00

The crescendo was increasing as the countdown to a new year, and a new decade, was upon our group of friends as we stood with drinks in hand on the penthouse terrace viewing all of Cuenca, from east to west. None of us had experienced a Cuenca New Year celebration so, being novices at it, we all had our visions as to what would ensue. We weren't disappointed.

Earlier in the days before we had enjoyed the Christmas parades, decorations and parties, as this beautiful country observed the many aspects of the holy days relating to the birth of Christ.

But tonight was a time for assessing the past year and preserving the good and getting rid of the negative events of 2010. And how the Ecuadorians get rid of the negative! How about burning effigies of those who represent a bad experience? All over the city, we saw life-sized effigies of paper mache, representing many of the world's more famous personalities, down to local notables. Plus many of the effigies were made so as you could design your own including a choice of many facial masks sold separately.

At the stroke of midnight, Cuenca erupted! What a scene! Fireworks lit the night sky as far as you could see. Every variety of color and design imaginable, coupled with the roar of explosions that made it hard to hear anything else, made us have a feeling of catharsis in that there was a sense of relief...we had made it through 2010. Making it through 2010, for many of us "expats", signaled the end of a trying, event-filled year of major transition. And a feeling of great accomplishment was felt by most of us who have successfully made many changes in our lives, with a true expectancy of a happy and challenging future in our new country.

Looking back, Pat and I reviewed our 2010, from the time we decided that it was time to leave the United States and to seek a different life in Ecuador. What we found was that, as thorough as we were in our studying, research, and planning, there were and are many surprises and twists and turns in process, resulting in a huge need for being flexible and adaptable. Bottom line -- it's doable and well worth the effort.

We had considered moving to Ecuador back in early 2009, but hadn't really put a plan in motion until we had done a lot of evaluation, both emotionally and practically. A lot of things had to fall into place in order to facilitate this move. For example, I had to have a successful back surgery, scheduled for early February. Pat's job was a nightmare, which wasn't getting any better, resulting in her feeling a lot of stress. An honest evaluation of what was happening to our country in terms of its future, weighed heavily on our minds. The list goes on and on.

Once we decided in early 2010 to move, we put our action plan into effect and set milestones for getting things done. Would we need a car? What about our home and furniture? What about finances? Would Ecuador be accessible to our families, and, would we be able to travel back and forth? What requirements do we have to meet in order to obtain residency in Ecuador? All of this and more isn't news to our fellow expats, but it might be helpful to those of you who are contemplating such a move. And I know that there are a lot of you these days.

The stateside events mainly included the disposition of our home, selling our car, storing (in our case) our furniture, setting up mail and phone service, obtaining all of our legal documents from the Secretary of State, county officials and the Ecuadorian consulate. Our Ecuadorian attorney had given us a pretty good checklist of those requirements. And finally, setting a date for our departure and purchasing airline tickets. Almost all of these things are affected by timing and, without fixed dates, it's hard to plan too far ahead as the accomplishment of those milestones dictate what happens next. It can be frustrating...the not knowing.

Once in Ecuador, another set of events take over as we transition to a new life, all of which prolong the full enjoyment of living here. Make no mistake, there were and are many wonderful aspects of Ecuador living that impacted us immediately, such as the cost of living, the precious people and the eternal beauty of Cuenca. But along with the good things, we needed to become familiar with totally new surroundings, begin the process of finding the "just right" home, complete the somewhat complicated steps of obtaining residency status, learning the language, and figuring out how to get from place to place.

So at the end of this two-pronged transition period...all of 2010, we come to: Five, Four, Three, Two, One....2011! Everything is done! We made it! We live here!

When the fireworks and noise were going on, Pat and I felt a great and joyous relief as we knew our year of transition was over and that we could now really start living in this wonderful country. If there was an effigy of 2010, we would have gladly watched it burn as it represented a lot of uncertainty, stress and change. Welcome 2011, we're going to have a great year.

Friday night on that terrace meant a lot more to Pat and I than just beautiful fireworks and explosions.